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REVIEW: Jeni's Splendid Salty Caramel




I have to admit, I was a bit iffy on investing so much on one pint of ice cream. After having made a special voyage to Fresh Market just to pick up a pint, I decided to press onwards with my purchase. Looking at the five or so flavors they had in stock, I kept it simple. I grabbed a pint of Salty Caramel and headed towards the register. Both the cashier and the bag boy instantly came to attention when the $10.99 price was displayed up on the monitor. After commenting on the costly container of ice cream, I politely paid and made my way home as quickly as physically possible.


I've heard some pretty rave reviews about Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams. I even sent out tweets about it. Jeni's even replied letting me know where to find some. From what I've gathered, Jeni's Splendid provides unique combinations of super-fresh ingredients to create  frozen treats for foodies. They use top-notch, fresh ingredients and do so in a unique, creative way producing some rather interesting offerings. Originally only available in Ohio, it's slowly becoming readily available all over the country and is also available for home delivery.


After making the mistake of buying far-out flavors in the past when approaching a new brand, I stuck to the basics for this one by starting with Jeni's Salty Caramel. The handwritten label really appeals to my inner-foodie and simply by knowing what you're eating was produced by human hands instead of forged by factory equipment adds some character in itself. Jeni's attributes the name Salty Caramel to a French man she used to work with in a French Patisserie who referred to salted caramel as salty caramel. After popping the lid off, I uncover a bland, beige looking base layer, but the aroma makes up for the lack of aesthetics.


As I expected after I let the pint thaw out for a few minutes, the ice cream peels back with passiveness, sliding onto my spoon without objection. This is one of those ice creams that needs to be savored. It needs to sit on the tongue for more than just a few seconds. It has a journey it wants to take you on. You just need to sit back and enjoy the ride. Jeni's describes this adventure, "Initial notes of burnt sugar give way to mouth-watering saltiness. A perfect salty/sweet balance."


Don't expect to be lulled to sleep with this base-only flavor. This just might be the most complex ice cream I've ever encountered. The burnt sugar summons all your senses and before you can gather your thoughts, you're bombarded with a saltiness that's just as startling (and satisfying). You aren't able to wrap your head around exactly why you're enjoying this so much. It's just good. Jeni's starts with the sugary tones and fades forward into the salty finish. Despite not having any mix-ins, I was never bored with this flavor. I decided not to destroy this pint in one sitting, though. Instead I enjoyed a few bites here and there over the next week or so, falling a little more in love with each scoop.


As far as complexness, richness, creativity and uniqueness go, you won't find a better option for your caramel fix. Perhaps it's just the placebo effect of paying more than I usually do for a pint, but you can really taste the love in this. You can pinpoint the pride and pleasure Jeni's take in their product. It shines through. Can I afford $10.99 per pint on a regular basis? Just like the majority of you, probably not. But if I'm looking for a one of a kind ice cream experience every once in a while? Absolutely. Base-only flavors rarely receive an A, but I'll make an exception for this.


Where I Found It: The Fresh Market
Grade: A